If you’re choosing smart switches for a Singapore home, the first question your contractor or electrician will ask is: “Do you have a neutral wire at the switch box?”
The answer is almost always no, and that one detail decides which smart-switch brands you can use, how stable your dimmable LEDs will behave, how long your bulbs and fans will last, and whether the connected light is truly off when the wall switch says it’s off. This guide explains the neutral-wire question for Singapore homes, the practical differences between neutral and no-neutral smart switches, and the brand-by-brand reality across Aqara, Yeelight Pro, SmartGeez M8 Pro, and other smart-switch options.
Table of Contents
What is a neutral wire?
Singapore mains delivers single-phase 220-240 V AC at 50 Hz across three conductors: Live (the energised conductor), Neutral (the return path back to the earth-bonded transformer), and Earth (the safety ground). At a typical light fitting, both Live and Neutral arrive at the lamp; the lamp completes the circuit when current flows from Live, through the bulb, back to Neutral.
A wall switch sits between Live and the bulb. When the switch is closed (on), Live continues through to the bulb as Switched-Live. When the switch is open (off), the path breaks and the bulb stops drawing power. In a conventional Singapore wiring layout, the switch box receives only two conductors: Live and Switched-Live. Neutral is routed directly from the distribution box to the lamp at the ceiling, it never visits the switch.
That convention works perfectly for a dumb mechanical switch, which only needs to physically interrupt the Live conductor. It’s a problem for smart switches, which need to be powered themselves, even when the lights are off, so they can listen for Wi-Fi / Zigbee / Thread commands and respond to taps, app inputs, or schedules.
Why smart switches need a different wiring approach
A smart switch contains a small computer, a microcontroller, a wireless radio, indicator LEDs, and the relay or triac that drives the connected light. That circuitry needs continuous low-voltage DC power to stay alert, even at 3 a.m. when the lights are off, so it can respond instantly to a voice command or schedule trigger. To produce DC, the switch needs to draw a small current from somewhere across the AC mains.
Neutral-mode design
The clean engineering answer is to feed the switch from Live and Neutral directly, with a small step-down power supply inside the switch body. The switch always has a stable rail of its own, independent of whether the connected lamp is on or off. Performance is consistent, electrical interference is minimal, and the switch can offer features like real-time power monitoring, overload protection, and finer dimming control without compromise. When you flip the switch off, the bulb is genuinely disconnected from Live, it’s properly off.
No-neutral-mode design
The compromise answer, designed for retrofits in homes that lack a neutral at the switch box, is the no-neutral design. The switch trickles a tiny current through the connected bulb itself even when the bulb is “off”. That current is small enough that incandescent and halogen bulbs don’t visibly glow, but it’s enough to keep the smart switch’s microcontroller alive. The catch: the bulb is technically always part of an energised circuit, 24/7, even when the wall switch says “off”. This works for the smart switch, but it introduces a set of trade-offs we’ll cover below, including a real safety consideration most buyers don’t think about.
Why most Singapore homes don’t have neutral at the light switch
The “no neutral at the switch” convention isn’t unique to Singapore, it’s the default across most of Asia, Europe, and parts of the Americas. Historically, when wiring conventions were standardised in the mid-20th century, every wall switch was a dumb mechanical switch. There was no reason to route neutral to the switch box, and copper was expensive enough that “minimum cabling” was the default approach.
That convention persists today. Walk through almost any Singapore home, HDB BTO, resale flat, executive condominium, condo, or landed property; old or new build, and the wiring at most light-switch points will be Live and Switched-Live only, with Neutral routed straight to the ceiling rose. The exceptions are predictable:
- Water-heater switches: these usually have neutral, because instantaneous water heaters draw enough current that the wiring is dimensioned generously and a 3-conductor route is standard.
- Air-con isolators: similar reasoning; AC compressors are heavy loads with full Live / Neutral / Earth at the isolator.
- Specialty installations: some custom-wired smart-home builds, ELV (extra-low voltage) circuits, and motorised-curtain controllers.
For everything else, your living room ceiling lights, bedroom downlights, kitchen pendants, bathroom strip, assume neutral is not at the switch unless you’ve specifically asked your electrician to pull it.
Neutral mode vs no-neutral mode: the day-to-day differences
What you get with neutral-mode switches
- When you turn the switch off, the lights are truly off. The bulb is fully disconnected from Live. No standby current, no faint glow, no “always-on” condition.
- Rock-solid LED compatibility. Neutral-mode switches handle the widest range of dimmable and non-dimmable LEDs without flicker, hum, or ghosting.
- Full power monitoring. The switch can measure actual wattage consumption per circuit and feed it back to your smart-home app.
- Overload protection and other advanced features that genuinely protect your circuits.
- Compatible with premium smart switches. 4-gang switches, smart panels with displays, scene controllers, many premium smart-switch designs are neutral-only by engineering necessity.
- Future-proofed. The smart-switch market is trending toward neutral-mode designs because they support Matter, Thread, fine dimming, and energy-monitoring features more reliably. Pulling neutral now protects your investment for the next decade.
- Bulbs and fans last longer. No constant trickle current means LED drivers and fan motors aren’t being slowly worn down between uses. PassionHome-stocked bulbs and fans on neutral installs typically come with the manufacturer’s full warranty; the same products on no-neutral installs may only carry a reduced warranty (the manufacturer accounts for the higher wear rate).
What you trade for the no-neutral compromise
- The bulb is technically energised 24/7. A small constant current runs through the bulb even when the switch is off, so the lamp is always part of a live circuit. Functionally invisible day to day, but real for safety reasons (see the next section).
- LED compatibility is a coin toss. Many modern LEDs are designed to be efficient, meaning they have low standby resistance and may flicker, glow faintly, or refuse to turn fully off when a no-neutral switch trickles current through them. Cheaper LEDs are particularly prone to this. Some smart bulbs and short LED light strips will show a slight residual hue.
- Bypass capacitor required for some loads. Aqara and other brands ship a small capacitor that mounts at the lamp end to “absorb” the trickle current. It’s another component to install at the ceiling rose, often hidden inside the housing of a downlight. And bypass capacitors don’t always solve the problem: for tricky LEDs, the flicker persists.
- Fan compatibility issues. Smart switches in no-neutral mode may have problems controlling some ceiling fans cleanly, buzzing, slow startup, or refusal to operate at low speeds.
- No power monitoring. The switch can’t measure the actual wattage drawn by the load because it’s part of the circuit itself.
- Limited dimming range. No-neutral dimmers tend to have a higher minimum-power threshold (LED drivers under 10 W may not register at all) and narrower stable-dimming bands.
- Reduced advanced features. Overload protection and some scene controls may be limited.
- Shorter equipment lifespan. The constant standby current cycles through bulbs and fan drivers, they tend to spoil faster than equivalent equipment on neutral installs. The reduced-warranty terms reflect this.
- Premium switches simply unavailable. 4-gang switches and smart panels with screens are typically only offered in neutral-only versions. If you want them, you must have neutral wiring.
Two common misconceptions about no-neutral switches
Misconception 1: No-neutral switches always cause flicker
Not quite. Flicker is mostly a low-wattage-LED problem. The standby trickle current through a no-neutral switch is small, typically around 1 W, and most LEDs above roughly 10 W tolerate it without visible effect. Lower-wattage LEDs (LED filament bulbs, decorative downlights, short LED strips) are the ones at risk because the trickle wattage gets close to their working threshold. If your fixtures are mid-range or above (10 W+), no-neutral switches usually behave fine; bypass capacitors fix the rest.
Misconception 2: No-neutral switches use more electricity
This one’s a myth. The standby trickle is ~1 W per switch. Across a 24-hour day, that’s about 24 watt-hours per switch, at Singapore retail electricity rates of around 30 cents per kWh, you’re looking at roughly 22 cents per switch per month, or under S$3 a year. Even with twenty smart switches in a home, the standby cost is under S$60 a year, a rounding error in the household electrical bill. The performance and lifespan trade-offs we covered above are real reasons to prefer neutral mode; the electricity-bill argument isn’t.
Why no-neutral switches cost more than neutral switches: and a buyer warning
One of the surprises for first-time smart-switch buyers: the no-neutral SKU usually costs more than the neutral SKU of the same model. The Aqara H1 EU no-neutral version retails at a noticeable premium over the H1 EU neutral version. The natural assumption, that the “simpler” no-neutral switch should be cheaper because it skips a wire, turns out to be the opposite of the engineering reality.
The price reflects the engineering work. Building a smart switch that runs reliably on a tiny standby trickle current, small enough not to visibly power the connected LED but large enough to keep the microcontroller, Wi-Fi / Zigbee radio, and indicator LED alive, is significantly harder than building a switch that draws clean power from Live + Neutral. The no-neutral version contains tighter low-power circuit design, more bypass-capacitor handling, and more LED-compatibility tuning to deal with the trickle-current edge cases. That extra engineering shows up in the bill of materials and the retail price.
Buyer warning: confirm your wiring before you buy
This price difference catches buyers off-guard. A common pattern: someone sees the cheaper neutral SKU, assumes the cheaper version is the “better deal”, buys it without checking their wiring, opens the package, and only then discovers their switch box has no neutral wire. The neutral switch they bought won’t physically work in their installation. And because the package has been opened, the switch is no longer in re-sellable condition, most retailers (PassionHome included) cannot accept a return on opened smart-switch boxes for hygiene and warranty-chain reasons.
Always verify your wiring before clicking “buy”. If you’re not sure whether your switch boxes have neutral, ask your electrician or contractor before purchasing. For Aqara H1 EU buyers in particular, the choice between the neutral and no-neutral SKUs is one-way once the package is opened, you can’t “exchange the box” later. Two minutes of wiring confirmation saves the cost of an unusable switch you can’t return.
If you’re still unsure: ask PassionHome before placing the order. Drop us a WhatsApp message at +65 9051 7063 with a photo of your switch box (taken with the breaker off, please) and we’ll tell you which SKU to buy. Free, takes a minute, saves you from the unreturnable-package trap.
The engineering reality: why no-neutral switches are hard to build
It’s worth understanding why most cheap “smart switches” sold online don’t work well in no-neutral mode. The fundamental engineering challenge is to reduce the standby trickle current to a level low enough that it doesn’t visibly power the connected LED, while still providing enough DC to keep the smart switch’s microcontroller, wireless radio, and indicator LED alive. That’s a hard balance, and it’s where most manufacturers cut corners. Cheap no-neutral switches end up with high standby wattages (causing visible LED glow), unreliable Wi-Fi connectivity (radio under-powered), or both.
Aqara’s H1 EU no-neutral SKU is one of the few where the engineering is genuinely well-executed. The standby wattage is low enough to handle most modern LEDs without flicker, and the bundled bypass capacitor solves the edge cases. This is part of why we recommend Aqara as the go-to brand if you must go no-neutral, the engineering matters, and not all no-neutral switches are equivalent.
The safety question: your bulb is technically always live in no-neutral mode
This is the point most no-neutral buyers don’t think about until they need to change a bulb. In a no-neutral installation, the smart switch keeps a small current flowing through the connected bulb at all times so the switch itself stays powered. From the bulb’s perspective, the circuit is never fully open. Touching the live terminal of the lamp socket, even after flipping the wall switch off, exposes you to a circuit that still has voltage on it.
The practical implication: in a no-neutral installation, you must turn off the lighting circuit at your distribution box (DB) or main consumer-unit breaker before changing a bulb or working on a fitting. A flipped wall switch is not a guarantee of “off”. For households where the homeowner or maid changes bulbs themselves, common in Singapore, this is a real consideration. With a neutral-mode installation, the wall switch genuinely interrupts Live, and changing a bulb after flipping the switch is safe in the conventional sense.
This isn’t a reason to reject no-neutral switches outright, millions of households use them safely with the DB-off habit, but it’s an honest trade-off worth knowing about before you choose your wiring approach.
Lifespan and warranty implications
The constant standby current in no-neutral mode has a measurable effect on the lifespan of your connected loads. LED drivers, in particular, are not designed to handle a continuous trickle current, the capacitors in their power-supply circuits cycle slightly even when the bulb is “off”, and over time this accelerates wear. Ceiling fan motors and their drivers are similarly affected, though to a lesser degree.
The result shows up in manufacturer warranty terms. Many of the lights and fans PassionHome stocks carry warranty terms that depend on the wiring scenario:
- Neutral-mode installation: bulbs and fans typically eligible for the manufacturer’s full warranty.
- No-neutral-mode installation: same products may only qualify for a reduced warranty, because the manufacturer accounts for accelerated wear from constant standby current.
Over the typical 7-10 year service life of a Singapore home renovation, the difference compounds. Neutral-installed bulbs and fans last longer; you replace them less often; warranty cover is generous if anything fails early. No-neutral installations save money on the wiring step and pay for it gradually in faster equipment turnover.
Why PassionHome strongly recommends neutral wiring during renovation
If your walls aren’t yet closed up, meaning your contractor hasn’t finished pulling cables and rendering, pulling neutral to every smart-switch location is the right call. To summarise:
- Lights are truly off when the switch is off, no constant 24/7 current through your bulbs.
- The widest range of LED bulbs, fans, and drivers work cleanly with no flicker or hum.
- Bulbs and fans last longer; warranty cover is more generous.
- You unlock more brand choices, including Yeelight Pro and SmartGeez M8 Pro, which are neutral-only.
- 4-gang switches, smart panels, and scene controllers become available to you.
- You can use the unused gangs on a 4-gang switch as wireless scene buttons to trigger automations elsewhere in the home, even if there’s no physical light at that location.
- No bypass capacitors to install at the ceiling rose.
- Future-proofed for the next decade of smart-home product evolution.
- Safer for routine bulb changes, the wall switch genuinely interrupts the live circuit.
- One-time, modest cost during reno (S$200-S$600 typical for a full HDB or condo) versus the ongoing cost of replacing equipment that wears faster.
When no-neutral mode is the right choice
No-neutral switches earn their keep in three scenarios:
- Retrofitting a finished home. You’ve moved into a place that’s already done, and chasing walls to add neutral isn’t worth the disruption. A no-neutral smart switch lets you keep the existing wiring and still get app / voice control. Pair it with a name-brand LED bulb and the experience is acceptable.
- Single-switch additions. You only want to smart-enable one or two switches, the front entrance and the master bedroom, for instance. Pulling neutral for two locations is overkill; a no-neutral switch is faster and cheaper for tactical adds.
- Rental units or temporary installs. You don’t own the property and can’t modify the wiring, no-neutral switches install with no wiring change.
For everything else, particularly any new BTO, EC, or condo where you’re doing a full reno, pull neutral. The marginal cost during reno is small; the benefit compounds over years.
Three paths forward: choose the level that fits your budget and ambition
Once you’ve understood the wiring question, you can pick from three sensible smart-home approaches for a Singapore renovation. Each is a coherent choice with its own trade-offs.
Option 1: Pull neutral, install smart switches
The most direct path. Tell your contractor to pull neutral to every wall switch box during the wiring stage. Install neutral-mode smart switches throughout (Aqara H1 EU neutral, H2 dimmer, Yeelight Pro, or SmartGeez M8 Pro). Use ordinary dimmable or non-dimmable LED bulbs at the lamp end. Get full app / voice control of every light, full power monitoring, full warranty on bulbs, no flicker. This is the recommended baseline for any new Singapore reno.
Option 2: Keep traditional dumb switches, invest in smart bulbs and smart fans
If you don’t want to spend on smart switches at all, an alternative is to keep your existing dumb wall switches and put the smart logic at the bulb / fan level. Smart bulbs (Aqara, Yeelight) connect to your hub directly via Zigbee or Wi-Fi; smart ceiling fans (KDK, Bestar with Aqara controllers, etc.) take voice and app commands without needing a smart wall switch. The catch: you must train household members to leave the dumb wall switch in the “on” position permanently, otherwise the smart bulb loses its standby power and goes offline. Works if you live alone or with smart-home-aware household members.
Option 3 (Ultimate): Smart switches + smart bulbs + smart fans, with scene gangs
The full setup combines all three. Pull neutral, install smart switches throughout (4-gang where the switch box has space), pair them with smart dimmable LED bulbs and smart ceiling fans. The unused gangs on the 4-gang switches become wireless scene buttons: tap them to trigger automations elsewhere in the home (front-door light + corridor light at once, “movie mode” dim sequence, “all off” master button at the entrance). This is the most expressive setup, but only feasible with neutral wiring as the foundation.
Brand-by-brand: which switches need neutral, which don’t
Below is the practical compatibility matrix for the smart-switch brands PassionHome stocks. Read this carefully if you’re choosing between brands: two of them are neutral-only with no no-neutral SKU available, which means you must have neutral wiring to use them at all.
| Brand / Model | Neutral required? | No-neutral SKU available? | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aqara H1 EU (relay switch) | Optional | Yes | Two separate SKUs sold as different products, the neutral version and the no-neutral version. Pick at checkout based on your wiring. |
| Aqara H2 EU (dimmer switch) | Optional | Same SKU, both modes | Single SKU that supports both wiring modes. Wiring decided at install. PassionHome.sg recommends neutral for full features. |
| Aqara H1 Pro | Optional | Yes (separate SKUs) | Premium glass-front variant in Black and Gold, neutral and no-neutral SKUs sold separately. |
| Yeelight Pro switches | YES, required | NO, does not exist | Yeelight Pro switches are neutral-only. No no-neutral variant exists or is planned. If you don’t have neutral at the switch, you cannot use Yeelight Pro switches. Plan neutral wiring during your renovation phase. |
| SmartGeez M8 Pro | YES, required | NO, does not exist | SmartGeez M8 Pro switches are neutral-only. No no-neutral variant exists. Same plan: pull neutral at the reno-wiring stage if you want to use M8 Pro. |
The two brands you cannot use without neutral wiring
The two brands above marked YES, required deserve to be called out separately, because the constraint is absolute. Yeelight Pro and SmartGeez M8 Pro both ship as neutral-only smart switches. There is no no-neutral variant in either product line. Aqara, by contrast, gives you a choice, the H1 EU is sold as two separate part numbers (one for neutral, one for no-neutral), and the H2 dimmer is a single SKU that wires either way.
The takeaway: if your heart is set on Yeelight Pro’s lighting ecosystem (track lights, downlights, drivers all integrated with their switches), or you want SmartGeez M8 Pro for its premium glass front and Tuya / Smart Life integration, you must have neutral wired to your switch boxes. Plan accordingly during your renovation. If you’re retrofitting and can’t pull neutral, you’re limited to Aqara’s no-neutral H1 EU SKU or third-party brands (Tuya / Smart Life) that ship a no-neutral variant.
Practical reno-stage guide
When to add the request
Tell your contractor or electrician about the neutral-wire requirement at the wiring stage: after the walls are stripped down to brick or concrete and before the cement-rendering / plastering work begins. Once cement goes back on the wall, adding wiring requires re-chasing, which adds cost and disruption. Most Singapore reno timelines pull electrical first, plastering second, finishing last; the neutral wiring slots in cleanly with the rest of the electrical work.
What to ask for, in plain language
“At every wall switch box where I plan to install a smart switch, please pull a 1.5 mm² (or larger) neutral conductor from the nearest lighting-circuit neutral or the ceiling rose into the switch box. The neutral should be terminated with appropriate insulation and made accessible alongside the existing Live and Switched-Live conductors at the switch back-box.”
For most contractors, this is a familiar request and adds minimal time to the wiring schedule. A floor plan marked with the smart-switch locations helps. If you’re doing the entire flat, say, every switch in a 4-room HDB, the marginal labour and material cost is usually a few hundred dollars in total, often absorbed in a generous reno electrical-package quote.
Verifying the work
After the wiring stage but before plastering, ask your electrician to open one or two of the switch boxes and confirm the neutral conductor is present. A smart switch typically has clearly labelled terminals (L, N, L1, etc.). If the back-box has all four conductors, Live (red or brown), Switched-Live (black or grey), Neutral (blue), and Earth (green-yellow), you’re set for either a neutral-mode or a no-neutral mode switch.
A note on our advice
PassionHome doesn’t earn from your electrical work. Pulling neutral wiring is a service paid by you to your contractor or electrician, not to us. Our recommendation to install neutral wiring is driven purely by what gives you the better long-term outcome: stable LEDs, longer-lasting bulbs and fans, more brand choices, safer bulb changes, and a future-proofed home. If you’d like a referral to a recommended electrician for the neutral-wiring step, we’re happy to help; reach out via WhatsApp +65 9051 7063. We can also work directly with your existing electrician during their on-site consultation to make sure all the smart-switch locations are wired correctly.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the no-neutral version cost more than the neutral version?
Because building a smart switch that runs on a tiny standby trickle current is harder engineering than building one with proper Live + Neutral power. The no-neutral version contains tighter low-power circuit design, more LED-compatibility tuning, and bypass-capacitor handling. That extra engineering shows up in the price. Important buyer warning: always confirm your wiring before purchasing, once the package is opened, the switch is no longer returnable. If you bought the cheaper neutral SKU and your wiring turns out to be no-neutral, you’ll be stuck with an unusable switch. Ask PassionHome on WhatsApp +65 9051 7063 if you’re not sure.
Do new HDB BTO flats have neutral at the light switch by default?
No. As of 2026, new HDB BTO flats follow the standard Singapore wiring convention, Live and Switched-Live at the switch box, with Neutral routed directly from the distribution box to the lamp at the ceiling. If you want neutral-mode smart switches, you’ll need to add the neutral run yourself during your renovation phase.
Is it dangerous to change a bulb on a no-neutral smart switch?
It’s safer if you treat it correctly. In a no-neutral installation, the bulb is technically part of an energised circuit even when the wall switch is off, because a small standby current keeps the smart switch alive. The right safe-bulb-change procedure is to turn off the lighting-circuit breaker at your DB box before working on any fitting. With a neutral-mode installation, the wall switch genuinely interrupts Live, so flipping the wall switch off is enough.
Why are Yeelight Pro and SmartGeez M8 Pro neutral-only?
Both brands target the premium-installation segment where homes are renovated with smart-switch wiring planned from the start. Their engineering choice is to optimise for the cleaner neutral-mode design, better dimming, full power monitoring, more reliable LED handling, rather than support a no-neutral fallback. There is no no-neutral variant of either, and (as of this writing) none planned.
Why do bulbs and fans get a longer warranty on neutral installs?
Constant standby current in no-neutral mode cycles through the connected bulb or fan driver 24/7, which accelerates wear on capacitors and motor windings. Manufacturers reflect this in their warranty terms: the same product typically qualifies for the full manufacturer warranty on a neutral-mode installation, but only a reduced warranty on a no-neutral installation.
What’s the cost of pulling neutral during a renovation?
For a typical 3-room or 4-room Singapore HDB or condo with eight to twelve smart-switch locations, expect somewhere in the range of S$200 to S$600 added to the electrical package. We don’t earn anything from this electrical work, the cost goes to your electrician.
Can I add neutral wiring after my reno is finished?
Yes, but it’s expensive and disruptive. Adding neutral after walls are finished means chasing the wall, pulling the conductor, then re-rendering and re-painting. The marginal cost during a reno is a few hundred dollars; retrofitting after is closer to ten times that.
Can I get a 4-gang smart switch in no-neutral mode?
Generally no. 4-gang smart switches need to power four independent relays plus the switch’s own microcontroller, which exceeds what a no-neutral trickle-current design can reliably deliver. Almost all 4-gang switches and smart panels ship as neutral-only.
Will my dimmable LEDs work with no-neutral mode?
Most likely yes, but with caveats. Cheaper LED bulbs can flicker, glow faintly, or behave unreliably with no-neutral switches. Mid-range and premium dimmable LEDs from reputable manufacturers usually work fine. Bypass capacitors help but don’t always fully solve the problem.
Do smart fans (ceiling fans) have the same neutral question?
Most ceiling fans use their own remote or wall controller and their wiring is independent of the lighting-switch question. If you’re driving a ceiling fan via a smart relay switch, neutral mode is more stable. Fans on no-neutral installations may experience the same lifespan reduction that bulbs do.
Can I mix neutral and no-neutral switches in the same flat?
Yes. Smart-home setups don’t require uniform wiring across all switches. You can run neutral-mode Yeelight Pro switches in your living room and no-neutral Aqara H1 switches in a guest bedroom. They all integrate into the same Aqara hub or Matter ecosystem.
What about the Aqara H2 dimmer: does it need neutral?
The H2 dimmer is a single SKU that supports both neutral and no-neutral wiring. PassionHome’s recommendation is to pull neutral if you’re renovating, neutral mode unlocks the H2’s full feature set including unrestricted power monitoring and finer dimming control.
Do I need neutral for Aqara smart locks, sensors, or curtain controllers?
No. The neutral-wire question only applies to mains-wired smart switches and dimmers. Battery-powered devices (sensors, smart locks, motion detectors) and curtain controllers don’t have this constraint.
Smart switches at PassionHome
- Aqara H1 EU smart switches: both neutral and no-neutral SKUs available; pick at checkout based on your wiring
- Aqara H2 EU dimmer switch: single SKU, supports both neutral and no-neutral wiring; PassionHome recommends neutral for full features
- Yeelight Pro switches: neutral-only; plan neutral wiring during reno
- SmartGeez M8 Pro switches: neutral-only; plan neutral wiring during reno
- Browse the full Aqara range at PassionHome: Authorised Aqara Dealer in Singapore
- Estate group-buys: up to 30% off when your estate unlocks
If you have specific wiring questions about your renovation or retrofit, reach out to PassionHome on WhatsApp +65 9051 7063. We can help you plan the smart-switch layout for your floor plan and recommend a brand mix that fits both your design preferences and your wiring reality. We can also work alongside your existing electrician during their on-site consultation, free of charge, our goal is making sure you end up with a smart home that’s stable, safe, and lasts.